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旅行指南

Lospalos

进入最东端前的最后一座小镇

最佳: May to October for dry roads and easier access to Jaco

Lospalos: 进入最东端前的最后一座小镇. The capital of Lautem, Timor-Leste's easternmost district, and the last proper town before Jaco Island, Nino Konis Santana National Park and the Fataluku villages of the far east. It has a good Saturday market with local crafts, and it is where you stock up before going further.

关于 Lospalos

Lospalos(Fataluku语:“Lospala”)是东帝汶最东端的市Lautém的首府。这是一座整洁的小镇,海拔346米,比沿海凉爽,也是去最东端之前最后一个服务可靠的地方。镇上约有17,000人,整个市有65,000人,面积1,817平方公里。再往东,各种服务越来越少,几乎没有。

小镇很安静,但它是去Jaco岛、Nino Konis Santana国家公园以及Com和Tutuala沿海村落的落脚点。天主教堂值得一看:钟楼的造型仿照传统的Fataluku灵屋,并用贝壳装饰。

Lautém是Fataluku人的家乡,他们是东帝汶最有特色的族群之一。Fataluku语是一种巴布亚语言(Timor-Alor-Pantar语系),与周边的南岛语系语言不同,出现的时间早于后来几批移民。附近Tutuala的考古发现显示,这里有42,000年连续不断的人类活动。Fataluku的uma lulik(灵屋)是建在桩柱上的高大建筑,屋顶陡峭,高7-9米,每10-20年由社区举行仪式重建一次。周六市集吸引东部各地的卖家前来,出售手工艺品、tais织物、陶器和新鲜农产品。

Ira Lalaro湖位于Lospalos以东约30公里,是东帝汶最大的淡水湖,旱季约1,000公顷,雨季扩大到5,500公顷。这里是重要的鸟类湿地,位于国家公园内。湖里还有约300条咸水鳄,所以游泳并不安全。Ili Kere Kere的岩画描绘了狩猎场景、动物、船只和手印(向导$10,往返2.3公里)。Lene Hara洞穴(请带手电筒)也有岩画。

游玩推荐: Lospalos

1

通往Jaco岛的门户

Lospalos是去Tutuala、再坐船到Jaco之前最后一个舒适的落脚点。Jaco是一座神圣的无人岛,浮潜条件极好。需要的东西请在这里买齐:水、食物、防晒霜和浮潜装备。从Lospalos到Jaco之间买不到任何东西。

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2

Nino Konis Santana国家公园

东帝汶唯一的国家公园(123,600公顷)从Lospalos以东开始,有热带森林、Ira Lalaro湖、200多种鸟类和古老的岩画。这里没有游客中心,也没有标记的步道,所以一定要请当地向导。

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3

岩画与洞穴

Ili Kere Kere有描绘船只、动物和人物的洞穴壁画(往返2.3公里,向导$10)。Lene Hara洞穴(往返1公里)也有岩画。至少30,000年前就有人在Lene Hara生活,洞壁上的大部分壁画绘于最近6,300年间。

4

周六市集

东帝汶东部最好的市集之一,有Fataluku手工艺品、tais织物、新鲜农产品和槟榔。早点到,选择最多。值得围绕它安排行程。

5

Fataluku文化

Lautém是Fataluku人的家乡,他们的语言、建筑(尤其是uma lulik)和传统都与东帝汶其他地方不同。拍摄灵屋前请先征得同意,并请一位能给你讲解所见事物的当地向导。

旅行贴士

  • 1Be in town on a Saturday for the market.
  • 2Buy everything in Lospalos before going further east: water, food, fuel and cash. There is nothing between here and Tutuala.
  • 3A local guide makes a big difference to understanding Fataluku culture.
  • 4If you're visiting Jaco Island, plan at least 2 nights in the Lospalos-Tutuala area: one in Lospalos, one near Tutuala or Valu Beach.
  • 5The rock art sites are easy to miss without a guide. Budget $10 per person for a guide at Ili Kere Kere.
  • 6At 346 m, Lospalos is noticeably cooler than the coast, especially at night. Bring a light layer.

安全与健康

Lospalos town is safe. The risks are in travelling on: rough roads, remote places with no phone signal, and limited medical care. The nearest hospital is in Lospalos itself (basic), and anything serious means evacuation to Dili. Crocodiles live at river mouths and along parts of the coast east of here, so always ask locally before swimming.

实用信息

From Dili
  • 6-7 hours by car via Baucau (good road to Baucau, rougher beyond)
  • Bus from Becora terminal $8-10
From Baucau
  • 3 hours by road
  • The road gets worse east of Lautem town
Accommodation
  • Hotel Roberto Carlos (about $35 a night with breakfast) is the main hotel and helps organise guides
  • Centro Antico (about $15 a night)
  • Near Tutuala: Pousada Lautem ($25 standard, $50 with A/C)
  • Valu Sere Beach Bungalows ($20 a night, book ahead)
  • In Com: Kati Guest House, Sina Guest House
Food
  • Several warungs in the town centre, including Warung Bakso
  • Hotel Roberto Carlos can arrange meals
  • At Tutuala and Valu Beach all meals are through the guesthouses and need advance notice
  • The Saturday market has the best fresh food
Money
  • No ATMs in Lospalos or anywhere in Lautém
  • Bring all your cash from Dili in small notes
  • Cards are not accepted anywhere
Onward transport
  • 4WD essential for Tutuala and Jaco (2-3 hours)
  • Com is about 1 hour north
  • Anggunas (truck-buses) and mikrolets run infrequently
  • Motorbikes can be hired, and Hotel Roberto Carlos can arrange drivers
最佳游览时间

May to October for dry roads and easier access to Jaco. October to early December adds whale watching at Com.

如何到达

Drive from Dili via Baucau (6-7 hours in all, 248 km). Bus from Becora terminal daily (early morning and afternoon, $7-14, 7-9 hours). MAF flights Tue/Thu from Dili via Baucau (about $80 one way). 4WD essential for the onward trip to Tutuala and Jaco.

完整路线指南:如何到达
亮点
Base for Jaco IslandNino Konis Santana National ParkFataluku culture & craftsSaturday market
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